My interview with Chef Deborah VanTrece
I talked with the prolific restaurateur Chef Deborah Van Trece about her former job as a flight attendant, sexism & racism she dealt with in the industry and her recipe for sweet tea baby back ribs.
I had the opportunity to chat with Chef Deborah VanTrece, one of the South’s most recognized culinary personalities, she is the CEO and founder of VanTrece Hospitality Group that includes restaurants; Twisted Soul Cookhouse & Pours, Oretha’s at the Point and LaPanarda, in Atlanta, Georgia as well as a catering company. In fact the catering company was the celebrated chef’s original plan years ago. After her career as a flight attendant started to seem shaky due to strikes and labor negotiations, Chef VanTrece decided to go to culinary school thinking she would eventually start her own catering business. Serendipitously, due to a landlord’s stipulation that she have some retail component in her first kitchen, she introduced Atlanta to her skills and the restaurant took center stage. It’s no surprise given the warmth and hospitality Chef VanTrece exudes, that her dining room took off in addition to the catering business.
Attending culinary school and working for established chefs, Chef VanTrece encountered the same sexism and racism that is spread across our society and industry. One thing that struck me in our conversation (because of similar experiences) was this story of a male chef interpreting her helpfulness as threatening to his job. It constantly amazes me how so many folks are more comfortable with mediocrity, rather than appreciating a person with true skill and dedication to their job. I think this is why having more women, BIPOC and queer head chefs is so important. Not that those identities automatically absolve a person of being an awful boss, because that is not the case at all. But many of us, as Chef VanTrece notes have struggled so that others don’t have to. The concept of creating a professional restaurant environment that as she put it is “a beacon of light” to mentor young cooks and create a supportive workplace instead of a competitive one is clearly an important aspect of her leadership. A vision I think a lot of chefs have these days, whether because like Chef VanTrece and myself we experienced the toxicity of traditional kitchens or just because it’s a better world (and business) for all.
We all know barbecue is a controversial topic…in terms of regional specialties and who believes they are “the best”. Originally from Kansas City, MO Chef VanTrece is serious about her barbecue and 100% sure KC has the very best in the nation. Now, I am planning my barbecue tour to check out some of the places that Chef recommends (have a listen to get the recs!) but in the meantime it’s me and my Green Egg. Chef also has a Green Egg Grill at home so I felt like I had the right tools to create the Sweet Tea Baby Back Ribs at home. The recipe is fairly straight forward once you have all the ingredients, and Chef’s tips on the smoking the ribs are helpful if you haven’t done a lot of meat smoking before. I love Chef VanTrece’s recipe because it emphasizes the tea in both the brine and the sauce, bringing the flavor forward with depth throughout. This is a great recipe for those that are somewhat new to cooking ribs and looking for that classic sweet & tangy with just a little heat baby back ribs.
Baby Back Ribs with Sweet Tea Barbecue Sauce
Brine
1 gallon unsweetened brewed tea
2 cups packed brown sugar
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/4 cup whole black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
5 cloves garlic, smashed
2 slabs baby back ribs (3 to 4 pounds total)
Make the BRINE: In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring the tea almost to a simmer. Stir in the sugar, salt, peppercorns, bay leaves and garlic and continue to cook until the sugar dissolves, but do not let the mixture boil. Set the pan aside to cool slightly for 10 minutes, then pour the brine into a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Refrigerated brine can last for 7 to 10 days before using.
After 4 hours, cut each slab ribs in half and add to the brine. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 18 to 24 hours. Remove the ribs from the brine and pat dry.
Spice Rub
1 TBS smoked paprika
2 tsp onion powder
2 tsp garlic powder
1 TBS packed brown sugar
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin
Make the SPICE RUB:
Combine the spices in a bowl and ix well. Rub the ribs with the mixture to coat. The spice rub can be made ahead and kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Sweet Tea Barbecue Sauce
1 cup ketchup
1/2 cup strong brewed ice tea, well sweetened
1/4 cup apple cider
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
2 TBS Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chili powder
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 TBS Dijon mustard
2 tsp liquid smoke
In a saucepan over medium heat, whisk all the ingredients together and simmer for 10 minutes to blend the flavors. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.
Cook the RIBS:
Prepare your charcoal grill by placing coals on only one side of the grill to create a two-zone surface. Place the ribs on the side without the coals, and cook over indirect heat (250 to 300 degrees F) for about 2 hours, turning often, until well browned. Brush the ribs wit the barbecue sauce once every 15 minutes or so before taking them off the grill, reserving any remaining sauce.
The ribs are done when the meat is tender and slightly pulls away from the bone. I used tongs to test by picking up a slab and gently bouncing it to see if the meat pulls away easily. Serve with sweet tea barbecue sauce passed separately.
This recipe is adapted from Chef Deborah VanTrece’s cookbook The Twisted Soul Cookbook; Modern Soul Food with Global Flavors
You can find out more about Chef Deborah VanTrece and her businesses here!